Understanding Keyword Abilities-cecillbill

This article is aimed at helping the beginner to intermediate level player 
grasp one of the basic mechanics of Duel Masters: keyword abilities. If 
you're an experienced player, then you can still stick around for all the 
unhinged excitement too. :)

[Keyword Abilities Overview]
Keyword abilities are simply special abilities that certain cards have. One 
example is being able to cast a spell for no cost (shield trigger ability). 
Understanding keyword abilities is essential to developing game-winning 
strategies for Duel Masters. Currently in the US version of Duel Masters 
there are 5 keyword abilities: Double Breaker, Blocker, Power Attacker, 
Slayer and Shield Trigger. In later sets there will be more abilities like 
the much anticipated Triple Breaker and something nifty called Survivor. 
Let's take a closer look at each of the 5 current abilities and discuss some

issues & tactics surrounding their use.

[Double Breaker]
Definition: This creature breaks 2 shields.
Example: King Depthcon

A creature with Double Breaker is one of the "spiffy" things you can slap 
down on the table. Your opponent knows that if he can't do something about 
your double breaker on his turn or can't block it on your turn----because he

has no untapped blockers or the creature is unblockable----he is going to 
lose 2 shields. Knocking off 2 shields at once can be useful, but it's 
important to understand what the ability can and can't do for you.

Expanded Definition: This creature breaks 2 shields when it attacks your 
opponent and isn't blocked. If only 1 shield is left this creature breaks 
just that 1 shield and you must have one of your creatures attack your 
opponent to win. The 2 shields a double breaker hits break one at a time. 
Even if your double breaker is killed by the first shield trigger, the 
second shield is still broken. This ability does not stack (is not 
cumulative).

Gameplay Issues
Let's go over a common "stumper" when it comes to the double breaker 
ability. Some spells in the game give any creature the double breaker 
ability. One such spell is Magma Gazer. The question that often arises with 
new players is whether a creature with double breaker breaks 4 shields when 
a spell like Magma Gazer is cast on it. Thankfully, the answer is "No." In 
gamers terms the double breaker ability does not "stack." This means the 
double breaker ability doesn't get added to itself to produce an outcome 
where more than 2 shields are broken by a creature with double breaker. 
Sorry kiddos, but your Bolshack pumped up by Gazer is still only hitting 2 
shields, albiet with a power boost. Don't fall victim to someone telling you

that a Magma Gazer-ed Urth hits you for 4 shields. That would be very broken

if it did. Also remember that when a double breaker hits 2 shields, the 
shields break one at a time. If your double breakers rams into a shield 
trigger like Terror Pit and is killed, the second shield is still broken due

to its' double breaker ability.

Tactics
Having double breakers in your deck is fun, but don't pack a 20 of them in 
your deck thinking you've got a killer on your hands. Why? Double breakers 
tend to have huge casting costs, like 5 mana and above. With too many of 
them in a deck you're going to have bad draws and see your shields hit your 
hands quick. Also, these are the creatures that get slapped with creature 
kill right away because of the huge damage they can do to your opponent if 
allowed to run amuck. If you have too many of them in your deck, chances are

they aren't going to last long enough to make a dent in shields (the ones 
with summoning sickness anyway). Also with too many of them, your deck is 
going to run out of steam fast if you don't have a sizable amount of low 
mana creatures to play. Ideally you want to have some other creatures out on

the field with the double breaker should it hit the yard quick or to protect

it. That's why it's best not to have double breakers be your deck's only win

condition by slapping a ton of them into your deck and not playing more cost

effective creatures.

Remember to ultilize the Double Breaker ability as best you can. Case in 
point: one of my friends had a Crystal Lancer and a Aqua Hulcus out when I 
had 2 shields left. He attacked me with his Hulcus first, hitting 1 shield. 
Then he hit the last shield with Lancer. Next turn, I hit him for the win. 
Can you see his mistake? If not, here's a hint: figure out how the turn 
would have played had Crystal Lancer attacked first. :) Remember that aside 
from your opponent "decking out" you don't win a game when all shields have 
been broken. You win when your opponent has no shields left and you attack 
him again and the attack isn't blocked.

For the most part use your double breakers to break shields and not to peg 
off creatures. Of course you can kill creatures with your double breaker if 
it gives you crucial things like field advantage (or say you use Gatling 
Skyterror). But think of a double breaker's use in terms of maximum utility 
for the mana cost. Double breakers are expensive creatures and for the same 
mana cost, around 5-7 mana for most, you could drop more than one creature 
on a single turn that could attack creatures. You want your double breaker 
to be hitting shields; they're breed for that task and their effect is 
supposed to justify paying so much to cast them. What's a good amount of 
double breakers to have in a deck? Depends on the type of deck you play, but

I wouldn't slap in more than 5 provided they don't cost over 5 mana (ie. 
Evolution double breakers like Armored Blaster Valdios). That's just me.

[Blocker]
Definition: When an opponent's creature attacks, you may tap this creature 
to stop the attack. Then the two creatures battle.
Example: La Ura Giga, Sky Guardian

Whether you love them or hate them blockers can save your creatures and you 
(your shields) from a quick demise. Depending on which blockers you run in 
your deck, they also can serve double duty as your (shield) protectors and 
another form of creature kill through blocking or attacking. A creature must

have the blocker special ability to be able to block an attack. Most 
importantly the blocker creature must be untapped in order to block an 
attack. And remember that some creatures in the game can't be blocked no 
matter how many blockers you have on the field.

Expanded Definition: When an opponent's creature attacks, you may tap this 
creature to stop the attack. Then the two creatures battle. Only an untapped

creature with the blocker ability may block an attack.

Gameplay Issues
Let's go over a common "stumper" when it comes to the Blocker ability. An 
issue that comes up with new players and blockers concerns 
attacking--whether or not blockers can attack. This is an easy mechanic to 
grasp if you remember that a blocker's card text tells you if the blocker 
creature can/can't attack and what it can/can't attack. A blocker can always

block an attack as long as it's untapped and the attacking creature is not 
unblockable. Blockers fall under three categories when it comes to being 
able to attack: 1. can't attack at all ("This creature cannot attack"), 2. 
can only attack tapped creatures ("This creature cannot attack players"), 
and 3. can attack players or tapped creatures. Category 3 blockers have no 
restraining card text regarding their attack printed on their card. Their 
cards simply say they are blockers and gives their attack power or some 
other effect. This means category 3 blockers can attack players or tapped 
creatures. They get to serve double duty as your protector and attacker. 
Aqua Shooter is a blocker that falls under category 3. Many blockers fall 
under category 1. They can't attack at all. This means they can only be used

to block attacks and only kill other creatures when their power is equal to 
or greater than the attacking creature they're blocking. Marine Flower is an

example of a category 1 blocker. And, lastly comes the type of blockers the 
Light civilization is known for (base set)--ones that can only attack tapped

creatures. They can't attack a player, and thus do not break shields, but 
they can attack a tapped creature.

Before I go over some blocker tactics, I must discuss a senario where the 
restricting text on blockers does not apply and any blocker can attack a 
player. Evo Crushinators of Doom introduced a Light spell that can turn any 
blocker, any creature with summoning sickness and any creature that couldn't

attack a player into a creature that can attack a player. That spell's 
Diamond Cutter. No matter what category your blocker falls under, when 
Diamond Cutter is cast your blockers can now attack players during the 
attack phase you cast the spell. You can instantly turn your field of 
blockers into a swarming fighting force. Notice however that Diamond Cutter 
only grants blockers, creatures that normally would have summoning sickness,

and creatures that normally couldn't attack players the ability to attack 
players--not tapped creatures.

Tactics
When a creature blocks it engages in a battle with the attacking creature 
and therefore can be overrun. For this reason it's best to run blockers for 
different stages in the game such as La Ura Giga (early game), Dia Nork (mid

game) and Gran Gure (late game) so you increase your chances of being able 
to ward off shield losses and retain your blockers on the field (have it 
survive an attack). For instance Marrow Ooze wouldn't be a good blocker 
against Fire decks with power attacking low mana creatures (weenies) but 
Bloody Squito would be because at 4000 power he could kill most turn 2 drops

when he dies. This is assuming that you even rely on blockers in your deck 
because some don't. Be mindful that under regular circumtances some blockers

can attack only creatures, some can't attack at all, and others can attack 
creatures and players. The trick is to find the best blockers for your 
deck's win condition should you choose to play any of them.

Some people believe blockers aren't needed in a deck. I have seen few decks 
perform consistently well without having at least 4 blockers. This is not to

say that you must have blockers in your deck. I'm suggesting that you have a

very good reason not to include some blockers in your deck. The decks I have

encountered that did succeed with little to no blockers had speed, swarm 
and/or removal in their favor such as a Fire/Darkness Weenie Rush. Basically

a blocker-less deck has to attack whenever able aka swarm other decks in 
order to prevail consistently. Blockers normally don't win you the game 
through their attacks, save a well-timed Diamond Cutter cast, but they help 
you prolong the game in order to drop something that tips the scales in your

favor or that prevents your opponent from having his way with your shields. 
Many of them can be used as creature kill via attacking your opponent's 
tapped creatures with them (like Light's infamous blockers). Depending on 
your deck type, having as many as 12 blockers in a standard 40 card deck 
seems like an okay maximum. That's not a rule. A deck with 12 blockers is 
going to be a defensive deck or something running Diamond Cutter. You can 
certainly do well with less blockers, none or maybe even more.

[Power Attacker]
Definition: While attacking, this creature gets +X power. (Where "X" is the 
number value printed after "+").
Example: Brawler Zyler

Power attacker just oozes of being able to "overrun" your opponent's 
creatures and blockers, doesn't it? A power attacker creature gets a boost 
in its' attack power when it's attacking. That means you declare that the 
power attacker creature is attacking, you tap it, and you select its' 
target--then it gets the boost. And, it only gets the boost when it is 
attacking. A power attacker creature can gain more than one boost to its' 
attack power on a turn. For instance, if you cast Burning Power on your 
Brawler Zyler, he now attacks with a 5000 power attack instead of 3000.

Expanded Definition: While attacking, this creature gets +X power. (Where 
"X" is the number value printed after "+"). Multiple instances of power 
attacker add up (are cumulative aka "stack"). When a creature that has Power

Attacker is not attacking it does not receive the attack power boost. Power 
Attacker bonus lasts through the entire attack phase for a turn, not just 
during the single attack by the Power Attacker.

Gameplay Issues
The expanded definition addresses some key issues that "stump" some new 
players when it comes to the power attacker ability. The main one is that 
creatures with power attacker only gain the boost in attack power when they 
attack. They don't have this boost when they are untapped or tapped during 
your opponent's turn. This means that a Zyler boosted to 3000 from his 
effect when he attacks can kill a La Ura Giga if blocked and will survive 
after the attack. But, when Zyler is tapped during your opponent's turn, 
he's back down to 1000 power and can be killed by a La Ura Giga. Unlike the 
Double Breaker ability, Power Attacker ability does stack. This means 
multiple instances of power attacker boost add up. So, if your creature is a

"power attacker +2000" and you cast Aura Blast, then it gets the extra 
"power attacker +2000" for a grand total of "+4000" when it attacks.

Another key thing to note is that the power attacker boost, from either the 
creature's card text or a spell, lasts for the entire attack phase of the 
turn the creature attacks and not just during the single attack by the 
creature. This is important to understand because it makes certain common 
plays illegal due to improper creature targeting. One such instance of 
illegal targeting is when a power attacking creature like Zyler who has the 
added attack bonus from a spell like Burning Power rams into a Tornado 
Flame. An opponent would probably try to the Flame the attacking Zyler. But,

that wouldn't be a legal play because Zyler is not 1000 attack power during 
the attack phase if he's pumped by Burning Power; he's at 5000. Tornado 
Flame can only target 4000 and below creatures. The rule of thumb for 
targeting creatures for destruction with limited creature kill like Crimson 
Hammer and Tornado Flame is to check the creature's base power then add any 
effects that have changed that power. In the above senario Tornado Flame 
would not be able to destroy Zyler because breaking shields is part of the 
attack and the power attacker ability will not be worn off until the end of 
the attack phase.

One last thing to note is that the power attacker ability of a creature does

not carry over to an evolution creature that is placed on top of it. Like 
all things involving evolution creatures, once a creature has been evolved 
it's card text and attack power no longer apply. Only the card text and 
power of the evolution creature apply. Even though the creature underneath 
the evolution creature is a part of the creature "stack," the evolution 
creature is an entirely different creature with it's own card text effect 
and attack power.

Tactics
If you take note of the power attackers from both the Base Set and the Evo 
Crushinators of Doom set you will notice that most of them have one thing in

common: a low mana cost. This makes most power attackers wonderful 
candidates for weenie rush strategies or a swarm with blockers. If you're 
looking to add early game attacking ability to your deck, popping in Fire's 
or Nature's power attackers would be something to consider. Most power 
attackers are suited for early game drops, unless you're playing a strict 
weenie rush. Be mindful that unless you pack some creature removal or do a 
lot of aggressive attacking in swarms with your low mana power attackers, 
they will most likely run into walls (blockers) or will fall to 
counter-attacks when they are tapped.

Playing most power attackers basically comes down to getting them out early 
and taking advantage of their power boost. If you face some common early 
blockers like La Giga Ura, then don't be afraid to attack with guys like 
Zyler who won't hit a shield if blocked by a Giga but who will work on 
knocking down your opponent's defenses. Because most of the power attackers 
are cheap 2-4 mana drops, they are good for making your opponent spread out 
his creature removal. They are also very easy for you to cast more than one 
a turn as opposed to building up lots of mana for a single fattie drop. You 
might have out 4 or 5 creatures like Mini Titan Getts and your opponent 
might only have spells or creatures to deal with 1 or 2 of your monsters 
that turn. With so many little guys out you can get some shield hits in due 
to the sheer fact that there's just too many of your guys to deal with!

[Slayer]
Definition: When this creature loses a battle, destroy the other creature.
Example: Bone Assasin, the Ripper

Slayers. . .well they slay. These creatures want to do some damage no matter

what the cost. Provided they stay on the field long enough to attack, 
slayers can present your opponent with some tough choices. It doesn't matter

how big the attack power is when a creature blocks, attacks, or is attacked 
by a slayer. If the slayer creature loses a battle, aka is killed, then both

creatures are going to their owner's graveyards. If your opponent values his

shields enough to block Bone Assasin with Ladia Bale, then it's bye-bye 
Bale.

Expanded Definition: When this creature loses a battle, meaning it has been 
killed in battle, destroy the other creature.

Gameplay Issues
Some new players get stumped when it comes the activation of the slayer 
ability and what happens to a slayer during a battle. The slayer ability 
kicks in when the slayer creature "loses a battle." That means it has been 
killed when it gets to slay the other creature because it lost the battle. 
The slayer hits the graveyard when the effect kicks in because it's 
destroyed, but it also gets to kill the other creature that either had the 
exact same power or greater power. This is true for when the slayer creature

attacks and is blocked by a bigger creature, when a slayer attacks a tapped 
bigger creaure, and when a slayer creature is tapped and is attacked by a 
bigger creature. Basically, a slayer that is able to attack is taking 
something with it.

There is a spell in the game that grants creatures the slayer ability, 
Creeping Plague. While at first glance it seems this cards gives all your 
creatures the slayer ability when they attack, it doesn't. Creeping Plague 
only grants your creatures the slayer ability if they attack and are 
blocked. This means that when you cast Plague, for the entire attack phase 
your creatures turn into slayers when they are blocked. If they don't get 
blocked after you cast Plague, then they aren't slayer creatures for the 
attack. Casting Plague on a Horrid Worm and attacking your opponent's tapped

Deathliger will not kill Deathliger because the slayer effect via Plague 
doesn't get activated. But, that play would kill any blocker creature that 
blocks your attack on Deathliger because Plague's text conditions have been 
met (the creature was blocked).

Tactics
Slayers can be an effective trump card. Usually when something like Bone 
Assasin hits the table your opponent will play creature kill spells like 
Death Smoke or Crimson Hammer to get rid of him before he can attack. You 
may view that as a complete summon waste, but it can be viewed a creature 
kill-lure. However, I wouldn't run a creature just so it lures out creature 
kill spells. Basically the Death Smoke spent on Assasin is one less Smoke 
available to hit something like your Zagaan. Slayers are solid guys to run 
in certain decks (like a Mono-Darkness control) because your opponent must 
now consider the effect a slayer will have on his tapped big creatures and 
his shields.

When playing a slayer use him to force your opponent to make tough decisions

about his shields and biggests creatures. One ideal attacking situation for 
a slayer is to be opposite a fattie blocker like Gran Gure or Ladia Bale 
with your opponent low on shields. When the only type of blockers your 
opponent has out are ones with more attack power than the slayer creature 
and he's down to like 1 or no shields, he's in a tight spot because he can 
lose a big guy and you might have nothing to lose by attacking. And if your 
opponent tries to peg off the slayer with a bigger creature when he's 
tapped, then that attacking creature is going to the graveyard too. Another 
good attacking situation is to ram a slayer into a tapped fattie. If it came

down to hitting a shield with a slayer or knocking off a huge threat, I'd 
might choose hitting the huge threat depending on the overall situation 
(like if the fattie was an unblockable double breaker). Remember that you 
can cast Creeping Plague to turn any of your creatures into slayers if they 
are blocked. This is a very cost effective (1 mana) way to make your 
opponent think twice about blocking your field of attackers so you can press

for some shield hits.

[Shield Trigger]
Defintion: When this spell is put into your hand from your shield zone, you 
may cast it immediately for no cost.
Example: Holy Awe

By far the easiest keyword ability to understand is Shield Trigger because 
it means "For Free." And, who doesn't like to get stuff for free? When a 
card with shield trigger ability is put into your hand from the shield zone 
you can immediately cast it on your opponent's turn without paying mana. You

have to decide right after the shield is hit whether or not you want to cast

it for free or keep it in your hand to play later. Currently only certain 
spells have the shield trigger ability. But, if you're one to read internet 
spoilers or buy cards from ebay then you may have discovered that some of 
the Japanese Duel Masters cards are creatures with the shield trigger 
ability! How awesome is that?!

Expanded Definition: When this spell is put into your hand from your shield 
zone, you may cast it immediately for no cost. You do not have to cast the 
spell when it's shield triggered.

Gameplay Issues
Some new players get stumped on when they can play a shield trigger card for

free. Here's when it's NOT free: If you draw a shield trigger card from your

deck, then you must pay mana to cast it. Here's when it IS free: If the 
shield triggered card is a broken shield that goes to your hand, then you 
can cast it for free immediately following the shield being broken. You can 
choose not to cast the shield trigger card when it's triggered from the 
shield zone. In that case you put the card in your hand and keep it there 
until you want to cast it by paying its' mana cost.

Tactics
I think every deck needs shield triggers. Call me crazy but that's the one 
thing I am a stickler for in this game. Shield triggers have turned the tide

of so many matches I've lost and won. I can't see running a deck without 
them. If your decks win without a single shield trigger being in your deck, 
then you deserve a giant chocolate chip cookie. I'm talking about one of 
those Guinness Book of World Records sized cookies. :) Basically shield 
trigger tactics break down to 1. what shield triggers to put in a deck, 2. 
how many to deck and 3. whether to cast the card when its' triggered.

Deciding on what shield trigger cards to run in your deck depends on the 
civilization(s) you run and your deck's win condition. Take a look at the 
shield trigger cards for the civilization(s) you want to play and choose the

ones that best support your deck's strategy. For example, if you play a 
Mono-Light Blocker-Swarm deck, then your deck's win condition rests on 
building up defenses, tapping, executing well timed attacks, and doing swarm

attacks via Diamond Cutter. For that deck type the shield trigger cards 
you'd be looking to deck are Holy Awe, Solar Ray, and Logic Cube. You'd 
choose the best trigger cards for the job and try to max them out to 
increase your chances of drawing them. In the example above, Holy Awe should

definitely be maxed out to 4 copies, and Solar Ray should see at least 2 
copies (most likely 4). Logic Cube would be helpful in the deck for tutoring

(searching) if you don't want to rely soley on creatures like Rayla or 
Laguna, and if included having at least 2 would increase its' chances of 
being drawn. Remember that not all shield triggers are created equally, so 
don't just slap every shield trigger available to a civilization in a deck. 
Running 4 Dark Reversal is probably not necessary in a deck that runs Amber 
Piercer. A general suggestion of thumb is to max out triggers that 
immediately change the field for you (Terror Pit), setup the field for you 
to do some clearing (Holy Awe) or give you hand advantage (Brain Serum). 
Other triggers are okay to max out, just make sure they are in line with 
your deck's win strategy if you do.

Without going into the math and probablity statistics involved in draw and 
shield drop ratios, let's just throw in the open the concept that your deck 
would do well to have more than 4 shield triggers in it. The main reason 
being is shield triggers more economical when they are triggered from the 
shield zone because they don't require you to spend mana to cast them. You 
want a higher chance of your shields ending up being shield triggers over 
the course of the many matches that you play your deck. It stands to reason 
that the more triggers you have in the standard 40 card deck, the better the

odds that the top 5 cards of your deck that get plopped down as shields will

be shield triggers. Don't pack just one Terror Pit in your deck expecting to

draw it or have it as a shield most of the time you play your deck. That 
just won't happen.

Lastly, knowing when to take advantage of a shield trigger card when its' 
triggered is simple: cast it off the trigger if you can use it to an 
advantage. If your opponent rams a Dark Reversal as a shield and you have no

creatures in your graveyard to retrieve to your hand, then don't cast Dark 
Reversal as a trigger. Save it for when your Squito or some other creature 
hits the graveyard.

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Those are the keyword abilities as they apply to the current environment in 
a nutshell. That's a mouthful to write for some basic concepts of a 'simple'

game, but without understanding keyword abilities you may have already put 
yourself in a position to lose. I hope this article helps new players on 
their journey to become seasoned Duel Masters players. Many of the things I 
discuss above I had to learn 'the hard way' myself. My last advice to new 
players is: Never be afraid to ask questions about the game, and never give 
up even if you lose a lot of matches. ~cecillbill, kaiserpso@hotmail.com

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