I'm sure every single person has gone through this
inner struggle at least once in his or her lifetime.
It goes a little bit something like this: "Should I
get this done now, or should I do it later?" Because
humans have a tendency to either be really active or
really lazy, it's easy for them to not know when
they should do something. This also goes for Magic.
There are plenty of moments where I have kicked
myself for playing a card sooner than I should have,
whether it is prematurely using an
Oxidize on a
Frogmite when I knew he had a
Cranial Plating in his
hand, or simply having trouble deciding when to use
that
Mana Leak or
Hinder. After a long amount of
time studying my game play I have come to the
conclusion that I am far from perfect when it comes
to this issue. However, because there is no way
anybody is perfect, I’d like to share my timing
knowledge with you.
What should I do?!
Every player has a lot to think about when they’re
playing a game of Magic. More times than not it's an
inner struggle to decide whether or not they should
be playing something to help accelerate into a
game-winner, stop their opponent from smacking them
in the face, or simply laying the smackdown
themselves with a fat creature they can afford.
If the situation is looking bleak for me or I have
to put a ton of thought into what my next decision
is going to be, more times than not I will ask
myself three questions. I find that by asking these
I make much better choices and avoid making stupid
mistakes, such as playing something when a card that
will keep me from dying needs that mana too.
This first question does not need to stay on top of
your mind if you are playing something like Maga
Combo since that deck requires a long amount of time
to assemble a victory. And the first question is...
1. Next turn, what will I gain from playing/doing
this?
If I cannot answer that question, then I should not
play that card or strategy yet. The answer to that
question could be something as simple as "I can beat
down the opponent," to something more difficult like
"I can play
Kodama's Reach, put a land into play
tapped and into my hand, the opponent hits me for
about 4 damage, then next turn I will be able to
play the land from my Reach, play
Heartbeat of
Spring, then win the game."
Now when I say "gain", I don't mean getting
something that can help in the later stages of the
game. I mean something that should be able to help
you next turn. If you're playing Black/Green Aggro,
your field has a forest and a swamp in play, and you
have a choice between playing either a
Sakura-Tribe
Elder or a
Dark Confidant as your second turn drop,
would you play the Sakura-Tribe Elder if the only
other cards in your hand besides Dark Confidant were
Shambling Shells and a Forest? Heck no! You know
there’s nothing in your hand that helps you with the
Elder’s land fetch, so why grab the land when you
could be netting card advantage with Bob? I could
see you playing in the Sakura-Tribe Elder if you had
something like a Savra in your hand, but with the
cards you have its unnecessary unless you plan on
topdecking something like that.
You should always have a plan for what you’re going
to do, what you’re not going to do, and how it
effects you, otherwise you will fall flat on your
face with no way of getting yourself out of the
dirt. Always think about how your decisions are
going to make an impact. If you’re not paying
attention, you may as well go back to the strategies
you used when you first began learning the game.
Most players when they first start the game, by
habit, feel it completely necessary to put
everything they've got into the early stages of the
game and try and win before the battle even begins.
So they’ll empty their hand trying to do this.
However, in the late game, they will have very few
cards in their hands and possibly be stuck in top
deck mode while you will still have cards to win you
the game or disrupt the opponent if they try to
recover. That’s where this next question comes in.
Because a game does not consist of only one person,
remember to ask yourself…
2.
If I play this card or perform this action, how
will the opponent respond?
This second question is actually quite difficult if
you don’t know what your opponent is playing. Even
if you do perfect your ability to play cards when
you need them, remember that you have another person
in the game that will try and stop you. You could
have the most fool-proof strategy on the planet and
win with it every time you solitaire, but if you
don't take into account what is in your opponent's
deck it will not work. Let's look back at the before
stated scenario. You went first, and your second
turn looks like this:
Your field: Swamp, Forest
Your hand:
Shambling Shell x2, Forest, Dark
Confidant, Sakura-Tribe Elder
Your graveyard:
Blackmail
Now, as I stated before, the best play in most
situations would be to drop the Dark Confidant
because you would not need the land from the
Sakura-Tribe Elder. However, let’s throw an opponent
into the mix with the following cards:
His field:
Stomping Ground,
Kird Ape
His hand:
Scab-Clan Mauler x2 (revealed from
Blackmail), rest unknown
His graveyard:
Isamaru, Hound of Konda (discarded
from Blackmail)
Now this completely chances what your plan does. If
you take damage, you’re probably going to have to
worry about a 3/3 trampling Scab-Clan Mauler, and
possibly two the turn after that. In this situation,
it would actually be best for you to play the
Sakura-Tribe Elder. “But Shino, you just said not to
because I won’t get any benefit for it next turn.”
While that may appear so on pen and paper, think
about it again. Your opponent attacks with his 2/3
Kird Ape, and you block with your 1/1 Sakura-Tribe
Elder. With damage on the stack, you sacrifice the
Elder and gain a land of your choice. Even though
the land didn’t give you any field advantage, it
also didn’t give the opponent an advantage, which is
important. Remember that your opponent is attempting
to get the best out of the situation too. Because he
wasn’t able to trigger his Bloodthirst with Kird
Ape, you do not have to worry about a Scab-Clan
Mauler right away, and then you can destroy the Kird
Ape next turn with one of your two Shambling Shells.
Let’s say, however, that you did decide to play the
Dark Confidant. Because you wanted to gain card
advantage, you would obviously not block with your
Dark Confidant and take two damage from the opposing
Kird Ape. Your opponent, of course, plays a land and
puts a Scab-Clan Mauler into play with two +1/+1
counters on it, to make it a 3/3. Your turn comes,
and let’s says you get nothing usable off of your
Dark Confidant and draw for the turn. You play your
Forest and play a Shambling Shell. You can’t attack
with Bob because he’ll die to the Scab-Clan, so you
end your turn. The opponent attacks with Kird Ape
and Mauler, and you block either the Scab-Clan with
Shambling Shell to get rid of the bigger creature,
or Kird Ape to get dealt less damage. With damage on
the stack, you put a +1/+1 counter on your Dark
Confidant. You take 3 or 4, and the opponent’s
whatever dies. Then your opponent plays another
Scab-Clan, just as big as the previous one. You just
gained absolutely nothing from playing your Dark
Confidant, and you’re starting to kick yourself for
going with that first.
Of course, you could always throw yourself to the
top of your deck and try to pull a
Putrefy out of
your butt, but letting your fate go to a completely
random assortment of draws would give you a huge
disadvantage against an opponent who has his stuff
put together and ready to go. Try and play cards
that give the opponent as much of a disadvantage as
possible and give you a huge advantage at the same
time.
This final question is probably for more
sophisticated players who are planning on doing
something incredibly difficult to win the turn, such
as combo out. Typically this doesn’t matter so much
if you’re playing a deck like Zoo, but I feel it is
necessary that you ask yourself…
3. Can I manipulate the stack to my advantage?
The stack is fun to screw around with, and if you
understand it backwards and forwards you'll be able
to grasp concepts and strategies that you didn't
think were possible before. Remember that everything
uses the stack at one point or the other (except for
mana abilities), so you get away with doing a lot of
things.
The main thing that people don't realize is that you
can pass priority in the game, wait to see
what the
opponent does, and then adjust your strategy
accordingly. Is the opponent feeding all his
creatures to his attacking
Nantuko Husk? Just as
he's about to put damage on the stack, respond by
saying "Before damage is on the stack, I will
Putrefy it." Because you decided to abuse the
shifting in phases and wait for all abilities on the
stack to resolve, you managed to make the opponent
waste a lot of time feeding his Husk. Now let's say
you're playing
Heartbeat Maga and you currently have
one Swamp, four Forests (two tapped), three Islands
(one tapped), and a Heartbeat of Spring in play with
an
Early Harvest and a Maga in your hand. You’re
playing in the Mirror Match, and you know the only
counter in his deck is
Muddle the Mixture. You don’t
want to tap out your lands to play Early Harvest,
because you’re afraid if you do it’ll get countered
and you’ll be forced to burn for a ton.
However, because of the tricks that you can perform
with the stack, you can play the Early Harvest, and
if it gets countered, you won’t take as much of a
mana burn. First, tap your two remaining forests in
order to play Early Harvest, floating one Green in
your mana pool. Before you tap the rest of your
lands, pass priority to your opponent. If the
opponent plays a Muddle the Mixture, then you take
one point of mana burn because you have nothing to
use the mana on. However, let’s say the opponent
cannot counter it. He passes priority back to you.
With priority now in your court, tap all of your
untapped lands for mana, which leaves you with two
black, one green, and four blue in your mana pool.
Because these are mana abilities, the opponent
cannot respond to them by using Muddle the Mixture
on your Early Harvest. Then you can untap your lands
with Early Harvest, tap them all again to give
yourself four black, nine green, and ten blue,
allowing you to deal exactly 20 damage to your
opponent with Maga.
Always remember that the stack’s rules are meant to
be broken to give advantage to the people who are
aware of what it can do. While I’m still trying to
figure out if there’s a way to destroy Maga with
either the +1/+1 counter or damage abilities on the
stack (I’m pretty sure there isn’t), it doesn’t mean
that you can’t try and figure out something for your
own situations. It doesn’t have to be anything
difficult. The easiest trick involving the stack is
blocking with a Sakura-Tribe Elder, putting Damage
on the Stack, sacrificing it, grabbing a land, and
still having the 1-damage from the Elder go to the
creature it blocked. Everybody knows that, because
it’s the easiest way to manipulate the stack.
Another situation where you have to watch your step
is when you’re playing against a Control Player.
Since they tend to counter all your threats, you
have a large disadvantage against them in the long
run. However, this can be flip-flopped if that
player doesn’t know what he’s doing.
The Ill-Knowledged Permission Player
I’m not talking about the control-player who knows
that your Kokusho is a threat, or that tapping out
for a Meloku is a bad idea when they’ve got a hand
full of counters. I’m talking about the people who
will counter the most insignificant cards that you
try to play against them for no real reason, and tap
out to play cards like Gifts Ungiven on their own
turn.
It’s not that the people are bad players. Most of
the time it’s because that player doesn’t realize
how good a card can be if used properly and just
throws it in the deck because everybody else does.
The prime-example of this type of card is
Remand.
Sure you can use it to counter a Sakura-Tribe Elder
when the opponent has four lands in play, but
there’s no real reason for it. You could just as
easily use the same Remand to counter a card that
the opponent tapped out to play such as a
Yosei the
Morning Star, and you would essentially get a
Time
Walk effect because the opponent won’t have enough mana to do anything else.
Ill-Knowledge people who use Permission decks also
don’t realize what cards in the opponent’s deck are
threats, and what is there to help get that threat
into play. Let’s go back to the latest Extended Pro
Tour Qualifier season, when Psychatog was considered
the best thing since sliced bread. I was playing a
homebrew build of Black/Green Turbo-dredge, built
specifically to beat Psychatog and all the counters
it ran. The deck was similar to Ichorid in
construction but without as high a level of
brokenness or the Ichorids. I believe all but three
of my matches were against Psychatog, and they
looked at my deck like they never saw it before,
because they never did (This was before Friggorid
burst onto the Extended scene).
I was continuously playing cards that dredged. And
because the opponent didn’t know what I was doing,
he kept wasting Counterspells on them. My first
opponent looked at me like “Are you crazy?” when I
played a
Life from the Loam with no cards in my
graveyard, just so I could dredge it. Eventually I
got a
Golgari Grave-Troll into my graveyard
alongside a
Brawn, dredged back Golgari Grave-Troll,
and because they wasted all their counters on my
weaker cards, let me resolve a nice-sized 11/11
trampling regenerator on turn 6. Or was it turn 7? I
can’t remember. But I’m rambling, let’s get back to
what I was talking about before.
In some cases, the reason that they are choosing
poor cards to counter is because they don’t know
what the heck the opponent is using in the deck and
are just going off a whim. But in the second and
third games of the match, there should be no excuse
for the opponent countering the wrong cards. They
should know that Sakura-Tribe Elder isn’t going to
win the opponent the game; it’s going to be the big
flying dragon that the Elder’s mana is going into.
While less sophisticated players may run into this
problem of “I don’t know what to counter”, more
competitive players will not make this mistake as
often because they’ll have seen the opposing deck a
million times, and they’ll know what will make them
lose the game if it stays around. Of course
competitive players will still have their occasional
bump in the road such as the rogue deck that is
built to beat the metagame.
---
By learning when to time your plays just right, you
will hopefully exclude the need for Fancy Play
Syndrome, which is thinking you have to impress your
opponent when you don’t need to. Don’t try and do
something super fantastic when something shorter
will work just as easily. I don’t care if you can
cast Early Harvest four times, float 123 mana, and
use it all to feed a Maga. Doing so is completely
pointless, and just tells the opponent that you like
to waste your time burning through spells which in
the long run will give them an edge in the later
games.
Just play the cards the way you need to play them,
when you need to play them, and to the best of your
ability, and you will win.
E-mail: OrconStores@yahoo.com
AIM: OrconStores |