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 Trading Card Game Tips from fans

 

November 2008

 

Winning in Yugioh: Power, Card Advantage, and Field Presence

 

Factors and potential factors- for gameplay and everything else, pertaining basically to winning

1,2,3,4,5,etc.=Approximate number ranking of the most important factor to the least important factor ranked separately for conduct and cards. Note: These are nineteen affective factors. There may be more, but these are the ones we are dealing with right now.

Total card factors:12

Total player factors:7

Card factors:

1.Card Power

2.Card Advantage (1 for 1, 2 for 1, etc.)

3.Field Presence

4.Spell/Trap Removal

5.Monster Removal

6.Hand Management

7.Draw Power

8.Speed

9.Versatility

10.Synergy

11.Hand Control 

12.Life Point Advantage

 

Player Factors

1.Self-Control

2.Cardpool

3.Proper Conduct

4.Card Rulings

5.Conviction

6.Intuition

7.Bluffing

 

This is part one of a seven part article covering basic factors in Yu-gi-oh! that pertain to winning. These factors, which deal both with the sum of a player's cards and the sum of a player's ability, affect the success rate of a player. When I say player, that includes the person's ability combined with their deck. There are many things to consider, for this is a complicated game. All of these factors combine to assist in winning a game. They exist singularly but also dependently, and they all matter on some level.

     The absolute factor involving all of this that is not listed is discipline: the entire force of will a player utilizes to accomplish their goals. You won't get anywhere in this game or anywhere in life unless you rigorously instill this within yourself. You must do everything you possibly can and more to be a champion, with no excuses. Everyone has the potential; few develop it. It's your responsibility alone. Once you happily accept this, you'll be well on your way to achieving greatness.

     Let's get on to card gameplay factors. Power is number one because it measures the sheer force that a card exerts on the game. It's pretty self-explanatory. Usually, the greater a single card's power, the better the card. There are exceptions and whatnot when you get into card combos, but generally, this applies. Look at any card. You can see how obviously powerful it is through logic. The Beginning Of The End? THAT'S a powerful card. Stardust Dragon? A step down. Then we could go Mobius The Frost Monarch, Breaker The Magical Warrior, Neo-Spacian Gran Mole, Smashing Ground, Kuriboh, Tribute To The Doomed, Different Dimension Capsule, Reckless Greed, etc. in descending order. The advantage a card generates is the primary component of it's power, most of the time. Sometimes there are combos and setup effects that you have to consider. Power = Good. Pack as much of it as you can Note: I know some of these cards stink: I was just making a point.

     Next, we come to the beloved card advantage, the pinnacle of potency which will leave you either ahead or behind by eight cards when the duel ends. It deals with math. Basically, a card can use itself to kill one other card, use itself to kill more than one other card, use itself and another card to kill one other card, or use itself and another card to kill more than on other card. You will always either A)Break even, B) Gain a +1 or more advantage, or C) lose a -1 or more advantage. We have one for ones, two for ones, one for twos, and two for twos. -1's are almost always counterproductive (using Tribute To The Doomed to kill one monster, cards like Magic Jammer, Monster Reincarnation, Divine Wrath, etc.). Steer clear from -1's except in specialty decks. One for ones are usually solid (using Fissure to kill one monster, Dust Tornado, Exiled Force, Bottomless Trap Hole, etc.). But sometimes, they're not (Double Snare, Man-Eater Bug), either because they are too costly or too situational. Two for twos can work, but are also often situational. You have to evaluate the card. Now, any card that generates a +1 advantage on it's own is a good card (Don Zaloog, Zaborg The Thunder Monarch, Junk Synchron). Even better, a card that generates or can generate a +2 or more advantage (Mirror Force, Mobius The Frost Monarch, Scapegoat) can break the game. Advantage puts you ahead of your opponent. It gives you more and more options as the game progresses and you back your opponent into a corner. It's crucial to winning, so definitely pack a lot of +1 or more cards. But it's not everything. This kind of advantage doesn't apply to cards like Treeborn Frog, Cyber Dragon, Mystic Tomato, Wave-Motion Cannon, Marshmallon, etc. Which brings us to factor number three.

     Presence. Field Presence. It applies mainly to monsters, but also to spells and traps. I believe Jae Kim originally coined the term. Whatever the case, I like the term. It deals with, basically, the ability of a card or cards to sustain themselves on the field, or "stay" on the field. Monsters with good field presence are Marshmallon, Treeborn Frog, Mystic Tomato, Krebons, Stardust Dragon, Sacred Phoenix Of Nephthys, and Colossal Fighter. They hold the field. The safer your field is, the safer your life points are. Also, the stronger your field is, the less safe your opponent's life points are. These cards can make you safer, stronger or both. Less influential but certainly important are spells/traps with good field presence. Examples? Swords Of Revealing Light, Fusion Sword Murasame Blade, Compulsory Evacuation Device, Toy Magician, and Scrap-Iron Scarecrow. These are chainable cards or cards that just have a knack for staying on the field. Chainability is the most supportive element of spell/trap presence. Scapegoat, Book Of Moon, and Enemy Controller are also good. Use effects that simply keep your cards glued on the field. Overwhelm your opponent with presence, and you'll get some presents when you win the tourney, plain and simple.

     That's it for part one. These are what I have found to be the top three card factors that make and break games over my years of playing. Stay tuned for part two: spell/trap removal, monster removal, and hand management.

 

Email me. I'm taproot484@gmail.com


 


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