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GeneralZorpa on Yugioh
Getting In the Game: Card
Choice
September 4, 2008
What!!? Summoned Skull is NOT Good?
I have been playing the game since the beginning, without
any breaks. But I have seen other players try and get back
in, only to find themselves completely out of date and
rather outclassed by newer cards and combos. I hate to see
people quit the game, so I thought that I would have an
entire series of articles about players trying to get into
competitive play. This is the first in the series.
The article today is going to be broken down into steps that
you can take in order to choose cards from old sets as well
as new so that you can play competitively without having a
harsh learning curve.
Step 1: Find Your Inner Player
The first step in making a deck or even a comeback is
finding out what is best for you. There are 3 general types
of decks, with subtle differences as well as blendings
between them. A control deck is focused on controlling your
opponent's cards, forcing them to play the way that you want
them to. Counter Fairies is a good exampled of a control
deck. The next deck is an Aggressive or Aggro deck. It
focuses on using powerful monsters with high stat values in
order to attack an opponent. The third deck is a Stall deck.
Stall decks use various spells, traps and monster effects in
order to stop your opponent from doing any attacking in
order for you to draw into a combo, usually Exodia or Burn.
If you like to attack and attack often, an Aggro deck is for
you. If you like to dictate the terms of the duel, then
control is your deck. Then if you like just watching your
opponent stew with frustration as they are burned or
Exodia'd to death, then a stall deck is appropriate for you.
You should not choose your favored deck type lightly, if you
are trying to get back in the game, then you will unlikely
be able to afford another deck should you change your mind.
You should also do a little bit of research into which kind
of deck is popular, as that way you won't pick a dud deck.
Step 2: Make An Accounting of Your Cards
This is harder to do than you might think. If you played
before, then likely you know what cards were good back when
you were playing, so take those cards from your collection.
This way, we can easily see what cards are more likely to be
good now. The next thing to do is to look on the banned list
to see if any of your cards have been put on the list since
you last played. This will narrow your card pool down even
further so that you aren't building decks around cards that
you can't even play.
Now, you should do some more research. Look on the forums to
see if any of you cards are being discussed in the single
cards or gossip forum. You can also check out the Card of
the Day, as there are many different cards that experienced
players take a close look at. The more recent reviews are
better as then you have them in context with what is being
played at the moment.
Once you have a card pool with some good cards, it is time
to group them. You can group them by what they do, such as
discarding cards, burning lifepoints and milling cards to
the graveyard. You can also group them by monster type as
well as support for that type or even attribute. Some cards,
like Monster Reborn are so powerful that they are included
in most decks, and are almost an auto-in for your fledgling
deck.
Step 3: Heavy Duty Research
As with most things in Yu-Gi-Oh!, the internet is your
friend. Both Pojo.com and Metagame.com are great resources,
both for searching out deck ideas as well as putting them
into a larger arena where other players can help you. If you
want to use new cards, then I suggest ideal808.com as it has
the best selection of cards and card pictures readily
available for viewing as well as purchase.
While you are researching you should be thinking about these
three things. What deck you like to play best. What deck you
can afford. What cards you have for the deck and which cards
do you need.
Metagame often has a great selection of the best decks from
major tournaments, like World Championships and Shonen Jump
Championships. However, often these decks are not only
expensive, they are fairly difficult to play and rather
unpredictable in the hands of less experienced players.
Pojo's forum is often the best place to get started with an
idea. here is a hint though, do NOT post a thread saying
"Which deck is best?" You will be often ridiculed and
receive no help. Instead, view the decks that were posted by
fellow players. There are hundreds of decks to see.
Remember, just because a deck is posted does not mean it is
good or suited to your playstyle.
You should also see which decks include a number of the
cards that you already have and divided into themes. This
will help to reduce cost in the next step as well as help
you to organize. It is more often than not good to pick more
than one deck that you want to build, this way if you cannot
get ahold of certain cards, then you always have a Plan B.
Step 4: Shopping
This is my favorite part of the process, as I enjoy just
acquiring new or exotic cards for my collections and decks.
The most basic way to acquire cards is to buy a
pre-constructed starter or structure deck, again, the newer
the better. The deck will often come with many cards that
are incredibly useful as well as give you a good starting
base from which to begin modifying it or taking the cards
that you need so that you may proceed to the building step
of your deck. However, most of the cards in the deck are
going to be useless, both in your particular deck as well as
in trading.
The next way of course is to buy booster packs. These are
generally cheap, going for anywhere from 3-4 dollars, so
that if you buy a small amount of them you do not pay too
much. Boosters are generally a good idea if you simply want
to expand your card pool. They are not good however, for
trying to get a specific card. You end up paying lots of
money for cards that you don't need for your deck.
Choosing a booster is incredibly hard, as you don't know
what is in them. Luckily, Pojo has expensive decklists for
every set. You can even check out interesting cards on
ideal808.com so that you can see their effects as well as
pictures. Often boosters are themed, so that you can focus
on whichever booster suites your deck best. In general,
reprint sets are the best ways to get power cards as they
are often of a lower rarity and each pack comes with more
cards.
The next way to acquire cards is often the most expensive,
buying singles. At this point you are paying for cards at a
fixed price that rarely fluctuates. Online stores as well as
local card shops often have a large selection of cards to
choose from, and if you are willing to pay the price, they
are a done deal. I actually recommend ebay for your card
buying needs, as the price is not set, but fluctuates with
the market. BEWARE, make sure to read the auction carefully
before you bid, so you can make sure you get what you pay
for. Many sellers simply include a card name in the title so
that it appears in searches. They also include lots, which
mean that you pay a certain amount and you have a chance to
win one of a certain card, one of which is rare and the
others aren't. Let me tell you, you WILL get the lower
rarity cards.
Buying singles is prudent if you are looking for certain
cards, or a specific number of cards. I would not recommend
buying a pair of Dark Armed Dragon at $120 a pop. For larger
value cards, it is often best to trade with your fellow Yu-Gi-Oh!
players. It is fun, fairly reliable and gets you into
contact with both more experienced players as well as
players round your level, wherever that may be.
Some quick tips for trading. ALWAYS know the value of your
cards. It is easy to be taken in by someone who says that
your cards are worth far less than theirs. If you don't know
prices, you can easily get ripped off. If you are looking
for specific cards, look up their prices as well. Use ebay
for prices, it is often the benchmark for "Street" prices of
cards and people will agree on the price more readily. You
can trade at local events, or anywhere that player
congregate, like Regional tournaments. Just be careful, as
thefts are likely to happen at bigger events.
Step 5: Hard Hat Construction
Your deck should now be mostly complete and all but in the
card sleeves. Sleeves are not necessary for game play, but
they help with protecting your cards as well as making
shuffling easier. I recommend special Yu-Gi-Oh! sized
sleeves, as the sleeve will fit better as well as shuffle
and protect better.
For higher end cards, like Judgment Dragon, you do not even
need to acquire them yet. You can use a "proxy", a card that
stands in for another. This way, you can try out the card in
your deck without having to spend the cash only to find out
the deck doesn't work. You may not use proxies in
tournaments, but in casual play you may ask your opponent if
you may use proxy cards.
Once you have a deck assembled, it is time to count them.
You should have between 40-42 cards for a competitive deck,a
s fewer cards in the deck means that you are more likely to
draw into the right cards for the job. You may have to make
some painful cuts, but a 40 card deck functions better than
a 60 card deck.
Once the deck is squared away, you should prepare your Extra
deck if you require one. The extra deck holds your Fusion
and Synchro monsters until they have been summoned. They do
NOT go into your main deck. You should also prepare a side
deck for competitive play, but we'll go over that in a later
article.
Step 6: Test, Test and Re-Test
Testing is the most arduous part of the deck creation
process, but the MOST necessary. You need to find out
whether or not your deck works before you pay even more
money to enter a tournament. You should also test with proxy
cards before you even attempt to acquire cards to make sure
your ideas work.
Testing involves a grueling series of matches in which you
pit your deck against another player's deck. This is
essential to find out whether the deck works or not as well
as for you to get used to the operation of your deck. Each
one is different and needs to be handled differently. If you
go Aggro with a Gadget deck, you can expect to be handed
defeats quickly, no matter how good the deck.
Testing is supposed to be long, and I find that 100 matches
are good for knowing how goof your deck is against a certain
deck. If your deck has won 60 or more matches, then you can
deem the deck a success at dealing with that deck. you
should not test with only one deck or player, some decks are
better than others and the same goes for players. Mix it up
to get more experience.
Testing does not have to and should not be limited to
playing games though. Goldfishing a deck is playing without
an opponent, to see if your deck can reliably pull off it's
win condition. You just play the deck as if your opponent
does nothing each turn. You can also use dry drawing, in
which you draw a six card hand in order to determine whether
or not you get a hand that does what you need it to. You
should keep a tally of this as well, so that "good" and
"bad" hands are kept track of. You should have about 80%
good hands in order for a deck to be playable.
Testing is never complete, so even after you have deemed a
deck worth playing, it is good to tinker with a deck,
playing around with card choices in order to see which work
best. This is the most important part for creating your
skills as a deck builder. You should always try new cards,
if just for fun.
That is all for this installment, it took a long time to
write, but I hope that everybody can glean some basic
information in how to pick cards and decks for you. You can
email me at
raptor1k@hotmail.com for questions advice or deck tips.
I also run tournaments in Davis California on Saturday and
Sunday at 1 and 12:30 pm respectively. If you are in town or
passing through, stop by. You can meet great players, ask
questions and even play in some low key tournaments.
Thanx for reading!
GZ
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